I don't just love this because of the satisfaction it gives me physically though; it's emotional too. This dish is full of history, and family, and general good-feeling. Everybody has that one dish that connects them to family, and warm memories; this is mine.
A History Lesson
My father and his parents immigrated here from Hungary in the 1950's during the Hungarian Revolution. My father was only 3 years old, so he doesn't remember much about his homeland. But his mother kept it alive in the food she cooked. When I was little, we didn't see my grandmother much. I lived in Massachusetts with my mom, and only saw my dad on alternating weekends. My grandmother lived in New Jersey (apparently there is a huge Hungarian population out there), so trips down were few and far between. Before my parents split up, my brother used to spend summers down there, but I was too young, so I never really got to know my grandmother the same way.
Dinner with Nagymama
Here's what I do remember. That woman knew her way around a stove. Meals with that side of my family were always jam-packed with traditional foods. If you know anything about Hungarian cooking, you know it's hearty, rich, and heavy on the sour cream! After one plate-full, you could probably hibernate for a month and be fine. But of course, Nagymama always offered seconds.
And you had to take them.
And then thirds.
This is the point when you would usually start to try and refuse. It was that or explode (I don't mean that figuratively!). You would say, "Oh, it's delicious, but I can't eat another bite!!"
My Nagymama would get sullen, and downcast. Then she would wail (with her thick Hungarian accent):
"You don't like my cooking!"So you take thirds. Once you were finally able to escape the dinner table, and go to the guestroom to try and digest, in she would come with a plate loaded with cookies and Fruit Roll-Ups (to this day, I can't see a Fruit Roll-Up without thinking of her).
Connecting with My Heritage
Unfortunately, my grandmother passed away almost 20 years ago. I never did get to know her as well as I would have liked, so I have started learning traditional Hungarian recipes as a way to connect to my heritage. This recipe was adapted from a cookbook from my grandmother's church in New Jersey. Unfortunately I don't have it with me, so I couldn't tell you which church, but I've changed very little. All I did was cut back the salt (the original recipe called for 2 TB!!! Drove my mother crazy...), and adjusted it to cook in a slow cooker; both the traditional and slow-cooker directions are included in the full recipe below, so feel free to skip down if you'd like.
Chicken Paprikash (Csirke Paprikás) - Traditional Method
First, gather your ingredients. Here's what you need:
...and an onion. Slice it thinly and set aside.
If you have a half (or whole) chicken, you'll need to disjoint it first (cut it into smaller pieces). I haven't shown the process here, because I don't really have the appropriate tools. If you've purchased just the legs, you're good to go. If you are using a half (or whole) chicken, save some of the fat (trust me on this one).
Season your chicken pieces well, first with salt, then pepper, then paprika. Given that the chicken will be pan seared, it's next-to-impossible to over-season the chicken at this point.
Rend some of the chicken fat in a large saute pan over medium heat. You will use this to brown your chicken (if you've chosen to use thighs, or even chicken breasts, you can always use peanut or olive oil). Brown the chicken on both sides. Be careful not to turn the heat too high, otherwise you might burn the paprika. Just keep it on medium and be patient.
When your chicken is browned, this is what you'll be left with (sniff... beautiful, isn't it?)
Add the onions to the pan drippings, and saute until translucent.
In a stockpot, put your browned chicken, onions, and water. Feel free to add a little extra paprika.
Bring to a simmer, cover, and let it go for at least 2 hours (more if you can). Keep an eye on the water level - don't let it dry out. Once at least 2 hours have passed, remove your chicken, and carefully remove the bones. Set aside the meat, and take a look at the glory left in the pot.
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Sorry, got distracted! Ladle off any excess fat...
Don't throw this fat away; it's like red gold! Put it in an airtight container and store in your fridge. It's great for sauteing chicken (shock, I know) or anything else needing a little extra flavor. Add your sour cream, and the shredded chicken to the leftover pan juices, and voila! Your dinner is ready!
Serve over cooked egg noodles with some Hungarian Bikaver wine (or any light bodied red/crisp dry white), good company, and lots of laughter!
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thanks for sharing such a great recipe, and for the story! I enjoyed reading about your family....my granmother was the same way, she would feed me until I would burst...lol..
ReplyDeleteThanks Chef Dennis! Dinner was never complete in that house without a small guilt trip :)
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